Climbing Lenin Peak, easy or difficult, big and high enough mountain or not?
I think everyone knows about the Snow Leopard program. Let me briefly remind you that the program previously included climbing all the seven-thousanders of the former Soviet Union:
- Communism Peak (7495 m)
- Pobeda Peak (7439 m)
- Peak Lenin (7134 m)
- Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m).
Due to the frequent closures for climbing the Pobeda Peak, instead it was allowed to go to the Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m and 7010 m) - why there are two heights, I think everyone knows.
Currently, this program includes climbing all 5 peaks, it is prestigious and relevant in our time.
View of Lenin Peak from Achik-Tash valley
Lenin Peak (7134 m) is the third highest peak in this program.
About Lenin Peak (briefly):
- geographically located in the Pamirs on the border of two countries: Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan;
- its modern names: Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan and Peak named after Abu Ali ibn Sina in Tajikistan;
- the first ascent was made in 1928;
- about 16 routes have been laid, and maybe more! Perhaps they are not yet included in the classifier;
- the most affordable seven-thousander in the Snow Leopard program;
- the Lenin-Race race is held to the top - the highest mountain race in the world! The men's record is 5 hours 6 minutes 50 seconds, the women's record is 8 hours 10 minutes. Start - from Camp 1 at an altitude of 4400 m.
I want to tell you about the ascent to Lenin Peak from the north through Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m). This route is classic (climbing Lenin Peak from Kyrgyzstan), and as many write, such an ascent is not difficult, does not require special training and climbing skills. So is it or not? Only you can judge...
You can get to the Lenin Peak Base Camp, to the Achik-Tash glade (Lukovaya Polyana, 3800 m), without being dropped by a helicopter, by car, which greatly affects the budget of the trip (downwards, of course!) If you are coming from Osh city by car, then already on the way you will be able to assess the scale of the mountainous region. And when you get to the clearing, then in good weather you can already see Lenin Peak itself. And it will immediately become clear what a big and high mountain it is!
The scale of the district
The BC is located on a green meadow. It is warm and comfortable here - there is electricity, a shower, a bathhouse, cellular communications, shops, bars, horse services, rental, etc. There are more than five camps in total, I do not specifically list them and do not indicate the names.
Acclimatization. As a rule, the ascent to Lenin Peak is made with a guide; in the first days, participants walk towards Camp 1 (4200–4400 m) to the Travelers Pass (4150 m) or to the crest of Petrovsky Peak (4830 m). From here you can enjoy magnificent views of Lenin Peak, the Achik-Tash glade, the valleys and lakes below.
Onion meadow
Pass of travelers
Peak Petrovsky
View of the Achik-Tash glade and the Base Camps from the crest of Petrovsky Peak
View of the valley with lakes from the crest of Petrovsky Peak
After the acclimatization exit, the ascent itself begins and many return to the BC only after the ascent (ascent attempts). Participants advance to Camp 1 (4200–4400 m), from where, according to the program agreed with the guide, they climb Yukhin Peak (5130 m) with or without an overnight stay, or go to Camp 2 (5300 m), located just above Skovorodka and further to Camp 3 (6100 m), on the top of Razdelnaya (6148 m).
View of Lenin Peak from Camp 1 (4200 m)
View from Camp 1 on the Yukhin pines (5130 m)
At first glance, it seems to many that everything is simple here, just pick up and go. Not certainly in that way. Firstly, the departure from Camp 1 starts around 2 am.
Early morning, exit to the glacier, we get crampons, ropes
You will need to go through a lot of dangerous areas with cracks and snow bridges, steep take-offs, as it will seem to you.
Another takeoff, cracks, snow bridges
In addition, no one canceled the "Mountain Sickness", and many groups, when approaching Camp 2, make stops literally after 50-200 meters. There are many very deep crevasses in the camp area, open and closed, and people sometimes dive into them. On the transitions from Camp 1 to Camp 3 it is better to use a rope for belaying.
Oh how hard the last meters to Camp 2 (5300 m)
Camp 2, Oh how hot it is during the day when the sun is shining
Having received high-altitude acclimatization at 5300 and 6100, the participants descend for rest and recovery to Camp 1, where it is also comfortable now: electricity, shower, sauna, wardroom, etc. Having rested, the climbers set out on a long journey. Again they go to Camp 2, Camp 3 and, subject to good weather and good conditions, make the first attempt to climb to the top, which lasts from 10 to 16 hours.
View from Camp 2 on the ridge to Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m)
First takeoff from Camp 2
Exit to the plateau
We go there, take off to Camp 3 (6100 m) on the top of Razdelnaya
Come on, come on, move your feet
From the last strength
And here is Camp 3
If it doesn't work, try again the next day. As a rule, the third attempt is not made - it is impossible to restore strength at a height.
Camp 3, evening
And it's already morning. It blew and sprinkled a little, 40 cm
At the top of Lenin Peak
Last night in Camp 3 and in the morning we descend directly to Camp 1. And here you are already met! Participants who managed to climb to the top of Lenin Peak will be pleasantly surprised. One or two days of rest in Camp 1 and again descent - to the base camp on a green meadow. Meeting, congratulations, bath, etc. And you will understand - what a thrill it is !!! Now we can say that everything is OK, you are safe. And the ascent took place or not, this is a separate question, here every time and for everyone everything is different. But in any case, you should not be upset - the peak will not go anywhere!
Cake for climbers
There is one more pleasant moment. During your stay here, you can see a lot of old acquaintances that you cannot meet, even living in the same city, meet interesting people, and even meet world celebrities. All in all, it's a great place to come back to. Many people do this and come here for more than 20 years in a row!!!
And what is the nature here! Full relax.
In conclusion, I would like to note:
- transitions between camps are quite long and tiring;
- it is better to use horses to bring your things and cargo to Camp 1;
- between Camp 1 and Camp 2, before the start of the traverse, approximately up to 5300 m, railings are hung through cracks and snow bridges;
- in sunny weather, especially in the afternoon, the snow bridges collapse and you need to provide your own insurance. Don't forget the rope!
- between Camps 2 and 3, in the plateau area of 5600 m, there are cracks, use a rope!
- during the ascent to the summit, which sometimes lasts 10-16 hours, keep an eye on the time and weather;
- keep an eye on your well-being, especially in the upper camps, do not hesitate to seek help, remember that at altitude, brain and lung edema develops instantly and cannot be cured there;
- if you are very tired, but healthy, or the weather has begun to deteriorate, do not go down unnecessarily, especially alone, stay overnight.
The plan for climbing Lenin Peak and the number of days depend on the preparation and the weather:
- physically strong participants with good altitude (about 6000 m) acclimatization can climb in 7-10 days;
- participants with acclimatization above 5000 m (Elbrus, Kazbek) may need 12-14 days;
- participants with little or no acclimatization may need 18-21 days.
And finally, the answer to the question posed at the beginning.
- To think that climbing Lenin Peak is easy is not right!!
- Lenin Peak is the most accessible seven-thousander in terms of logistics and finances - that's right!
- Yes, the mountain is very big and climbing requires a lot of physical and psychological effort.
See the schedule of our tours with photos here - Climbing Lenin Peak, 7134 m
More of our programs in Kyrgyzstan - look
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