Tours list
Climbing Tetnuld and Ushba

Climbing Tetnuld (4869 m) and Ushba (4690 m)

  • Registration for 2026 has begun.

  • Two beauties of the mountain in one round!

Tetnuld is one of the most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus. She is taller than Mont Blanc and much more interesting. According to the mountaineering classification, ascent along the southeast ridge corresponds to category 2b of difficulty. From the top of Tetnuldi you can enjoy stunning views of the beautiful Ushba.  

Ushba - is considered the most beautiful and prestigious mountain of the Caucasus. It has two peaks South (4100 m) and North (4690 m). It laid many routes 5-6 categories of difficulty and one 4 categories. That is why we will make the route

Attention!

  • In this tour you will have 3 (three) ascents: for acclimatization: Laila (4009 m) or Vakhushti (3879 m), Tetnuld (4869 m) and Ushba Severnaya (4690 m)
  • For independent groups of 3 people, the tour will take place at any time (to be agreed upon in advance)
  • You can only climb Tetnuld with a group
Article:
116
Country:
Georgia
Tour type:
Expeditions and ascents
Directions:
Svaneti, Georgia
Complexity:
Middle/ Hard
Number of participants:
Strictly 3 participants
Maximum height:
4869 m
Season:
June - August
Start of the program:
Tbilisi (Kutaisi, Batumi)
Finish program:
Tbilisi (Kutaisi, Batumi)
Duration:
17 days
Price:
2 800 USD
Count:
Tours dates
  
22.07.202607.08.2026
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Attention!

  • there are several program options,
  • the final program option is agreed upon before the start of the tour,
  • the program is adjusted upon arrival at the location taking into account the weather and acquaintance

Approximate program

Day 1

The group gathers in the village of Mestia. Here acquaintance takes place, purchase of food, fuel, registration with rescuers, border guards. Overnight at the hostel. It is easier to get here through Tbilisi. Night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, from where at 6 in the morning transfer to Mestia settlement. Here you will find a bunch of minibuses, the road to the village of Mestia takes 3 hours. As additional options - arrival in Batumi or in Kutaisi

Day 2-4

Acclimatization and training climbing. Alpine village of Ushguli (2200 m). Going to the lower Inguri nights. Narzan. Overnight. The next day, the transition to the upper Inguri overnight stays to the beautiful lake. Classes. Overnight. Climbing to Vakhushti (3879 m), 1b dif.

Attention!

  • As a second option, these days we make an acclimatization ascent to Laila Peak, 4008 m, which takes 4 days.
  • Before the start of the ascent, we recommend a walk without backpacks to Lake Koruldi

Day 5
Descent to Ushguli. Transfer to the middle station of the cableway. Going to the start of the climb to Tetnuld

Day 6
Ascent to the Nageb pass (3700 m). Overnight stay

Day 7
Climbing toTetnuld in the southwest, 2b dif.

Day 8
A spare day in case of bad weather. Then descend to the cable car and transfer to Mestia. Overnight at the hostel

Day 9

Rest day, visit to the historical museum and the museum of M. Khergiani.

Day 10

Transfer to the village Maseri. Trekking to camp "Hunting nights". Overnight in tents.

Attention! According to the state of the group, you can reach the foot of the Ushba icefall.

Day 11

Trekking to the foot of the Ushba icefall. Overnight in tents.

Day 12

We get up early. Technical and long climb to Ushba pass. Overnight in tents.

Attention! According to the state of the group, you can climb the Ushba plateau

Day 13

Climb to the Ushba plateau, rest, check equipment before climbing. Overnight in tents.

Day 14

Early exit at 2-3 hours, long ascent to the peak - Northern Ushba (4690m), route 4A of difficulty category. Descent Overnight in tents on a plateau.

Day 15

Reserve day for bad weather. In the case of a successful ascent, we use a reserve day to go down.

Day 16

Descent to Mazeri, transfer to Mestia, overnight at the hostel. Festive dinner.

Day 17

Departure

Attention!

  • Different changes are possible along the way, depending on the weather and the condition of the group.
  • All recommendations and wishes of the Guide are taken into account
  • When climbing Ushba - one guide for 3 trained participants
  • On request, on the way back, you can relax at sea in Cabuletti.

Option 1:

Tbilisi (Batumi, Kutaisi) - Mestia - Lake Koruldi - green meadow near the Laila hotel - Chizhdi pass (3150 m) - green meadow parking (2850 m) - Climbing to Laila (4009 m) - green meadow (2850 m) - Chizhdi pass (3150 m) - Mestia - green meadow of Tetnuldi (2800 m) - Amaranth nest (3380 m) - Nageb pass (3700 m) - Climbing Tetnuld mountain ( 4869 m) - Mestia - Mazeri settlement - Hunting overnights - Camp at the foot of the Ushbinsky Icefall - Camp at the Ushbinsky Pass - Camp on the Ushba Plateau - Climbing North Ushba (4690m) - Mazeri settlement - Mestia settlement - Tbilisi (Batumi, Kutaisi )

Option 2:

Tbilisi (Batumi, Kutaisi) - Mestia - Ushguli - lower Ingur nights - upper Ingur nights - Climbing to Vahushti (3879 m) – Ushguli - green meadow of Tetnuldi (2800 m) - Amaranth nest (3380 m) - Nageb pass (3700 m) - Ascent to Tetnuld  (4869 m) - Mestia – v.Mazeri - Hunting camps - camp at the foot of the Ushba icefall - camp on the Ushbinsky pass - camp on the Ushbinsky plateau - Ascent to Northern Ushba (4690m) - Mazeri village - Mestia village - Tbilisi (Batumi, Kutaisi)

The cost of a package of services - from 2800 US dollars *

* Strictly 3 participants (Ushba)!!!

Included:

  • Mestia, accommodation in a hostel, three nights
  • 3 meals a day on the route (we shop together, we cook together)
  • group climbing equipment (we will discuss this before the start of the tour)
  • registration with border guards and rescuers
  • rental of personal equipment (option for a fee)
  • work of the instructor (Guide)

Attention! When climbing Ushba - one guide for 3 trained participants

  • first aid kit
  • Moving Mestia-Ushguli-cable car-Mestia
  • Moving Mestia-Mazeri-Mestia
  • lifting loads on horseback (option for a fee)

The price does not include:

  • air flight to Georgia and back
  • travel Tbilisi (Kutaisi) - Mestia - Tbilisi (Kutaisi)
  • participants bring tents to accommodate 4 people (if there are 3 participants)
  • participants bring 2 ropes of 50 meters each
  • children are not allowed on the route
  • Insurance (Mandatory, required upon registration with border guards!!!)
  • personal equipment
  • additional excursions,
  • transfers outside the program
  • food in cities

What is included in group public equipment

Ice screws, carabiners, loops, hooks, stoppers, communications, gas cylinders or gasoline, burners, medical kit, cooking utensils, etc.

Brief information on the area

Svaneti is a historical mountainous region in the north-west of Georgia, inhabited by Svans.

Geographically and historically, Svaneti is divided into Upper and Lower, separated by the Svaneti ridge. Upper Svaneti is an alpine valley in the upper reaches of the Inguri River. In administrative terms, Upper Svaneti is the Mestian region of the Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti region with its center in the urban settlement. Mestia. From the north and east, Upper Svaneti is bordered by the Main Caucasian Range with the peaks of Shkhara, Ushba, Tetnuldi, etc., along which the Georgian-Russian border passes. From the west, the area is separated by the Khurum ridge from the Kodori Gorge. Upper Svaneti was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Mestia - an urban-type settlement, is the cultural and religious center of the mountain of Svaneti. There is a historical and ethnographic museum in the village, where unique icons and manuscripts are stored, a house museum and a bust of a native of Mestia, the famous climber M.V. Khergiani (buried here). Several dozens of medieval Svan stone houses with watch and residential towers have been preserved here; churches (X - XIV centuries), including Matskhvari (Spas), Targzel (Holy Archangels) and others. Numerous medieval churches and fortifications of the Mestia region are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Mestia is also a center of alpine tourism and mountaineering; from here ascents to the peaks of Ushba, Dzhangi-tau, Shkhara and others begin. On December 1, 2010 the first ski resort was opened here. Now there are two of them: Hatsvali and Tetnuldi

Requirements for participants

  • The route is designed for good physical fitness
  • The group size is from 3 to 12 people. When climbing Ushba - one guide for 3 trained participants
  • Participants bring tents to accommodate 4 people (if there are 3 participants)
  • Participants bring 2 ropes of 50 meters
  • Children are not allowed on the route
  • Insurance (Mandatory, required when registering with border guards!!!)

Additional information

  • The host party has the right to change the schedule of movement along the route according to weather conditions and the condition of the group
  • Tourists prepare meals on the route themselves on gas burners - primus stoves under the supervision of an instructor
  • The price of the tour does not include: additional excursions, transfers outside the program, environmental fees, etc.
  • It is possible to provide additional services by prior arrangement: transfer: airport - hotel; rental of personal equipment; hotel reservations; organization of recreation on the Black Sea; accommodation in Tbilisi, excursions in Tbilisi, Mtskheta, etc.

How to get to the start of the route?

It is easier to get here via Tbilisi. Night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, from where at 6 am transfer to Mestia. Here you will find a lot of minibuses, the road to Mestia takes 3 hours. As additional options - arrival in Batumi or Kutaisi

ATTENTION!!!!

  • All recommendations and wishes of the Guide are taken into account
  • If one of the participants on the day of the ascent feels ill, a participant is injured, etc. The Guide (one Guide in the group), for SAFETY purposes, returns the entire group down. A second attempt is made the next day.
  • If there are 2 Guides in the group, the second Guide ensures the SAFE descent of the participants, and the first continues the ascent
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