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Ilinis volcano (5263 m), two peaks. Ecuador

Climbing the peaks of the Ilyiniza volcano,  South (5263 м) and North (5126 m), 5 days

The twin peaks of the Ilinica volcano are located 60 km south of the city of Quito. This is one of the best climbs in the area, combining high altitude and technical climbing. The top of South Iliniza is higher and has a glacier with several short technical passages that are really interesting. This is a great mountain to level up and the ascent is well within the ability of the novice climber.

  • The program we have compiled is aimed at good acclimatization and preparation before the ascent.
  • You will preliminarily make two more ascents to the volcanoes: Pasocha (4164 m) and Guagua Pichincha (4794 m)
Article:
366
Country:
Ecuador
Tour type:
Expeditions and ascents
Directions:
Ecuador
Complexity:
Medium
Number of participants:
From 1 people
Maximum height:
5263 m
Season:
All year round, but there are rainy seasons
Start of the program:
Quito
Finish program:
Quito
Duration:
5 days
Price:
880 USD
Count:
Tours dates
  
01.01.202231.12.2022
01.01.202331.12.2023
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Day 1    
Pick-up at the hotel in Quito, transfer (2 hours) to the start of the trail, located at an altitude of 3848 m. From there, a well-marked trail leads through farmland to the Paramo area. From here the trail leads south, gradually rising to the base of the crater. The last section is the steepest and follows a mountain path to the edge of the crater. The last meters to the top are along the edge of the Pasochoa Crater (4164 m), which offers a beautiful view of the Machachi Valley, also known as the "Volcanoes Avenue", and the highlands to the west. On clear days, there is a beautiful view of the volcanoes of Cotopaxi, Sincholagua, Rumiñahui and Artisana. The descent goes back along the same path. After returning to the starting point, the group will be taken back (2 hours) to Quito.
Overnight at the hotel.
Ascent: 516 m / Descent: 516 m / Maximum altitude: 4164 m / Activity duration: 5 hours
Meals included: Picnic
 
Day 2    
Meeting at the hotel in Quito, transfer (2 hours) to the beginning of the trail to the parking lot at an altitude of 4150 m. From the campsite, the hike goes through the "paramo" terrain, making its way through the changing vegetation to the moraine. The climb is very straight, but the distance to be covered is considerable anyway. There is a lot of climb during the hike, which is great for acclimatization and preparation for higher peaks. Pichincha are three peaks located on the western ridge just above Quito. Guagua Pichincha (4794 m) is the highest and youngest of the three peaks. The other two are Rucu Pichincha and Padre Encantado (The Enchanted Father) a little lower. Guagua is also the site of the last eruption in 1999, but geologists consider it safe to climb. Guagua and Rucu are very popular climbers due to their location on the outskirts of the capital and easy access. The return journey along the path of the ascent. Further from the parking lot, a 2-hour drive along the beautiful “Volcano Avenue” to a mountain house located near the town of El Chaupi (2930 m).
Night in a mountain house.
Ascent: 644 / Descent: 644 m / Highest altitude: 4794 m / Duration of activity: 6 hours
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 3    
Breakfast, short transfer (1 hour) to the upper parking area, located at an altitude of 3680 meters. From here, the group will follow the “paramo” (Andean Highlands) trail, which turns into a rocky moraine as you climb. The terrain becomes steeper, reaching a well-marked ridge that rises into the valley separating the twin peaks and where the Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677 m) is located. Upon arrival, the mountain guide will give appropriate instructions for the next day's climb and help you prepare all the necessary equipment. The Nuevos Horizontes Hut, a very basic accommodation with one large area where both the bunk beds and the kitchen are located. The hut has basic services such as a kitchen, dining tables and toilets.
Overnight at the hostel with sunbeds.
Ascent: 817 m / Maximum altitude: 4677 m / Activity duration: 3-4 hours
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic, Dinner

Day 4
The ascent starts immediately from the Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677 m). The route goes to the saddle and further north. The ascent itself is very panoramic as it follows the south ridge of the mountain with breathtaking scenery on both sides. During the ascent there will be short sections with easy climbing before we reach the top of North Iliniza (5126 m). North Ilinis is one of the twin peaks of the Ilinis massif. It is the easier of the two from a technical point of view, but still requires physical climbing. Depending on logistics, weather conditions and the team's fitness, the descent can be made along the same trail or along the northern ridge, down a large scree, turning into a circular route. Back at the campsite, the team will be transferred (2-3 hours) to Nuevos Horizontes Hut
Overnight at the hotel.
Ascent: 449 m / Descent: 1266 m / Maximum altitude: 5126 m / Duration of activity: 8 hours
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic

Day 5    
Very early in the morning leaving the hut, climbing to the saddle between the Ilinizas. From the saddle, the trail heads south as the terrain steepens to the glacier. Here the team will prepare and, depending on the size of the group, will be divided into teams of 2 participants per guide. The ascent follows a series of ramps, the difficulty of which varies depending on the conditions. Sometimes the terrain can be rocky in certain places, making the climb even more difficult. The climb itself is just amazing and a lot of fun. The view from the top is amazing and on clear days you can see most of the Ecuadorian Andes almost in full. The top of the South Iliniza (5263 m) is an ice peak, which, due to its location, accumulates more moisture than its northern twin peak.Therefore the glacier has a slower melting rate and is still surviving. The ascent is technical, requiring knowledge in the use of technical equipment, as there are slopes from 45 to 75 degrees, all depending on the conditions. It is also known to be covered in cracks and can get tricky depending on snow accumulation.The descent is carried out along the same route back to the hut. After collecting things, the group descends to the parking lot, and then to Quito (3 hours).
Ascent: 586 m / Descent: 1403 m / Highest altitude: 5263 m / Duration of activity: 10-12 hours
Included meals: Breakfast, Picnic

Quito - Pasochoa (4164 m) - Quito - Guagua Pichincha (4794 m) - El Chaupi mountain lodge (2930 m) - Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677 m) - North Iliniza (5126 m) - Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677 m) - South Iliniza (5263 m)  - Quito

The cost of the full package of services -  from 880 USD*
* cost for a group of 6 people 

Included:

  • Local English speaking mountain guide during the entire program
  • Local English speaking assistant guide mountain guide during the entire program from 5 PAX
  • Private transportation throughout the entire program
  • 1 night in shared double room in hotel in Quito
  • 1 night in shared double rooms in the Mountain lodge at Iliniza’s Park
  • 2 nights in shared dormitory at Iliniza’s mountain hut – Nuevos Horizontes
  • Entry fee to the National parks and natural reserves
  • Pasochoa, Pichincha & North Iliniza volcano assistant mountain guides ratio: 1:4
  • South Iliniza assistant mountain guides ratio: 1:2
  • Meals as specified in the day to day itinerary

Not Included:

  • Domestic or international flights
  • Separate airport transfers in case of multiple arrival/departures
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Insurance
  • Tips
  • Everything not mentioned in the “Included” list

Ecuador is a wonderful country for activities such as mountain climbing, trekking and hiking.
Ecuador has programs to suit all experience levels, from beginners and amateur enthusiasts to professionals.

Mountaineering. In Ecuador, you can climb all year round, but there are seasons:

  • High season: June to August / December to January
  • Low season: February to May / September to November.

Trekking and walking tours. In Ecuador, the best months to do this are June through November, when you're almost guaranteed to get great views of the country's spectacular volcanoes and Andes mountains.

There are: 11 national parks, Inca trails, craters, volcanoes, mountain lakes, and one of the best traks in the world - the Condor Trek, which runs in the Antisana Reserve

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