Brief information on the area
You are going to the Lenin Peak area!
Lenin Peak is one of the highest peaks of Central Asia, located in the Pamir mountain system (7134 m) and one of the "seven thousand meters" - the highest peaks of the former USSR, now - the territory of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Lenin Peak (until 1928 - Kaufman Peak; in Tajikistan since 2006 - Peak named after Abu Ali Ibn Sina) - the mountain peak of the Chon-Alai Range on the border of Kyrgyzstan (Chon-Alai District of Osh Region) and Tajikistan (Murghab District of the Gorno-Badakhshan Auton region).
Climbing Lenin Peak is included in the high-altitude program “The Conqueror of the Highest Mountains of the USSR”, the unofficial name is “Snow Leopard”.
These are five peaks: Pobeda Peak (7439 m), Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m), Ismoil Somoni Peak (former peak of Communism, 7495 m), Lenin Peak (since 2006 Abu Ali ibn Sina Peak from the Tajik side, 7134 m) , Peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105 m).
We carry out the ascent along the classical route from the north side, from the side of Kyrgyzstan. Despite the fact that the classical route is technically simple, climbing Lenin Peak belongs to the class of high-altitude mountaineering and requires climbers to have good physical and mental health, appropriate equipment and a sound approach to acclimatization.
A clear plus in favor of the financial accessibility of Lenin Peak is that a helicopter is not required for transfer to the Base Camp, ordinary motor vehicles are enough.
The Lenin Peak climbing program is also recommended as an acclimatization program for climbers planning expeditions to the Himalayas and Tibet.
Requirements for Participants
- Route is fit
- Group size from 4 to 12 people
- Children are not allowed on the route
- The receiving party has the right to change the route schedule according to weather conditions and the condition of the group
- Tourists prepare meals on the route themselves on gas burners - stoves under the guidance of an instructor
- The price does not include: additional excursions, transfers outside the program, environmental fees, etc.
- It is possible to provide additional services by prior arrangement.
How to get to the beginning of the route?
By plane to Osh, this is the nearest major city, from where all ascents to Lenin Peak begin. From Osh along the Pamir Highway through the Taldyk pass (3615 m), off-road vehicles can be used to get to the Alai Valley. Then, from Sary-Tash to Kashka-Suu, crossing the bridge over the Kyzyl-Suu River and climbing along its tributary, the Achik-Tash River, the path lies to the Edelweiss Glade, where climbers expeditionary camps are usually set up. You can drive another 5 kilometers to the famous Lukovaya Polyana (3800 m), then only walking is possible. Usually the journey from Osh to the base camp site takes 12 hours.
Take with you:
It is necessary to prepare for the ascent to Lenin peak. You should not relate to the selection of equipment after the sleeves, even if you plan to make an ascent along the simplest route.
Below is a basic list of equipment for climbing to Lenin peak:
- a backpack of 80-120 liters for carrying personal equipment on the approaches to the base camp. If you take a smaller backpack, you will have to carry some of the equipment in your hands, which is not permissible for safety reasons;
- for your comfort, an additional 30-40 liter assault backpack is recommended for climbing to the top;
- sleeping bag (comfort - 25C) - the temperature in the upper camps can drop at night to - 30 C;
- a warm jacket (puff) with a hood for base camp and climbing + an additional thin down jacket;
- thermal underwear designed for low temperatures and average activity (for the base camp and climbing), some tourists climb to the top in two sets of thermal underwear;
- waterproof windproof jacket and trousers. Attention! When buying a windproof kit, check with the seller - does the material withstand negative temperatures;
- a protective mask from wind and frost (balaclava, buff) - there is rarely calm on climbing, the mask will save your face from chapping and burns;
- tracksuit - running gear on the approaches and during climbing;
- Climbing boots for climbing. Boots should be adapted for mounting climbing cats. Shoes are bought 1-1.5 sizes larger than you wear in the city;
- sneakers or mountain boots (easy trekking) for the base camp and approaches;
- light flip flops for base camp (must be worn on warm socks);
- warm mittens and warm gloves - fleece;
- climbing gloves for climbing;
- ski hat for camp and climbing;
- cap or panama from the sun on the approaches and on the ascent in the afternoon;
- climbing cats, the design of cats must match the type of mountain boot;
- ice ax; ice drill;
- climbing helmet;
- climbing safety system (top and bottom);
- carbines with couplings - 3 pieces;
- trekking sticks on the approaches;
- working gloves for the camp and approaches;
- polyurethane foam or an inflatable rug, choosing a rug remember - overnight stays on the glacier are possible;
- rain cover on itself;
- rain cover on a backpack;
- shoe covers on your feet - attention! Shoe covers are special “socks” that are worn on the legs and create additional comfort (warmth) for the leg when climbing;
- lanterns on the legs - protective leggings made of fabric, worn on the shin of the foot on the approaches;
- sunglasses with non-breakable glasses to protect the eyes from wind, snow, solar radiation. Often, two pairs of glasses or two ski masks with white (for the night) and black (for the day) glasses are taken for climbing;
- UV tanning cream at least 30, and preferably a full block;
- fat hygienic lipstick with a UV factor of at least 30;
- headlamp (spare batteries - 2 sets);
- mug, spoon, bowl, knife (KLMN) - the optimal use of thermo dishes, since in high altitude conditions (low temperatures) the products quickly cool;
- thermos for climbing, with a volume of at least 1 liter;
- a flask for water, with a volume of at least 1 liter - when climbing, an increased amount of moisture is required;
- an individual first-aid kit where you put in addition to the medicines that you usually use and an additional 2 sterile bandages, 1 sterile cotton, 1 plate of citramone, a tape of a band-aid - an ordinary, non-bactericidal, 1 plate of mezim;
- personal hygiene products: toilet paper, wet wipes (if necessary), personal hygiene products for women (mandatory for women!), a toothbrush and toothpaste, a hairbrush.
- 120 liter garbage bags - 4 pieces for sealing things on approaches and storing the throw.