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Climbing Mont Blanc and Matterhorn. France - Switzerland - Italy

Climbing Mont Blanc and Matterhorn  

Mont Blanc (Mon Blanc, Monte Bianco) - the dream of many mountain climbers, the dominant peak of the Alps, 4810 m high. It is from the ascent to Mont Blanc that the origin of mountaineering is associated.

Matterhorn, Monte Cervino, Mont Cervin is one of the most beautiful mountain peaks in the Alps - a dream many climbers

Article:
103
Country:
France - Switzerland - Italy
Tour type:
Expeditions and ascents
Directions:
Alps
Complexity:
Middle
Number of participants:
From 1 to 12 people
Maximum height:
4810 m
Season:
May - September
Start of the program:
Chamonix
Finish program:
Zermatt (Breuil-Cervinia)
Duration:
13 days
Price:
3 475 USD
Count:
Tours dates
  
01.06.202408.09.2024
01.06.202507.09.2025
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Climbing Mont Blanc (4810 m). We offer 2 options for climbing Mont Blanc (4810 m)

1. The Gouter route

Day 1. Meeting in Chamonix (Chamonis-Mont-Blanc), accommodation in a campsite (apartment, hotel).

Day 2 - 3. Acquaintance with the valley and Chamonix. Purchase, check of equipment and products. Directions for acclimatization exits are determined by the place, the state of the group and the weather.

Day 4. There are two options for starting our journey to the summit:

  • take the tram at the train station in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains-les-Fayets (Le Fayet , 580 m)
  • take the cable car to Les Houches, and then transfer to the tram.

In both cases, we reach Nid d'Aigle (Nid d'Aigle, 2380 m) in about 1 hour.

Then we follow through a hut at an altitude (2700 m) and further to the Tete Rousse shelter (Tete Rousse, 3167 m).

Day 5. In the morning we cross the Grand Couloir, which is dangerous due to rockfalls, and further (all in crampons) along a steep path, rocks and ice, in the upper part there are railings made of steel cables, passing groups of descenders, we climb to the Guter shelter (Aigulle du Gouter, 3817 m)

Day 6. An attempt to climb the summit or an additional acclimatization day.

Day 7. Reserve day

Day 8. Descent along the ascent path immediately to Chamonix or one more night in any of the shelters

Day 9-10. Pleasant stay in Chamonix. Discussion of future plans. Moving under the Matterhorn.

 

2. Cosmic route or through the Three Peaks (The Three-Mont-Blanc route, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc)

Day 1. Meeting in Chamonix (Chamonis-Mont-Blanc), accommodation in a campsite (apartment, hotel).

Day 2 - 3. Acquaintance with the valley and Chamonix. Purchase, check of equipment and products. Directions for acclimatization exits are determined by the place, the state of the group and the weather.

Day 4. We take the cable car and follow to the top of Aiguille du Midi (3842 m). We admire the beauty, put on crampons and climbing equipment, go down the Aiguille du Midi ridge to the glacier du Tacul on the plateau, and then a small climb to the Cosmiques Hut (Cosmiques, 3613 m).

Day 5. Attempt to climb the summit or an additional acclimatization day. We will pass through the peaks of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248 m), Mont Mody (4465 m) and climb Mont Blanc (4810 m)

Day 6. Reserve day

Day 7. Descent along the ascent path immediately to Chamonix or one more night in the shelter.

Day 8-9. Pleasant stay in Chamonix. Discussion of future plans. Moving under the Matterhorn.

Attention!!! Reservations for huts are made in advance. Very often there are no free places! Or they just won't let you in!

Climbing the Matterhorn (4478 m). We offer 3 options for climbing the Matterhorn (4478 m)

 

Option - 1. Climbing the Matterhorn from Switzerland along the Northwest Hernli Ridge, difficulty category - 3B

Day 1. Meeting of the group in the village of Zermatt (1608 m). Accommodation at the campsite. Introductory tour. (Who does not know the way, we will send a detailed description)

Day 2. Ascent to the mountain shelter Hernli (Hörnli, 3260 m). Options on foot or partly by cable car to the Schwarz Lake station (Schwarzsee, 2580 m)

Day 3. Early rise, storming the main summit of the Matterhorn (4478 m)

Day 4. Reserve day in case of bad weather, poor health.

Day 5. Descent to the village of Zermatt, departure of the climbers (1608 m)

 

Option - 2. Climbing the Matterhorn from Italy, moving to Switzerland, along the Northwest Hernli ridge, difficulty category - 3B

Day 1. Meeting in Breuil-Cervinia (Breuil-Cervinia). Accommodation at the hotel. (Who does not know the way, we will send a detailed description)

Day 2. Ascent on the cable car, crossing to Switzerland, moving to the Schwarzsee lake (Schwarzsee, 2580 m), then to the Hernli shelter (Hörnli, 3260 m). Preparing to climb the Matterhorn. Overnight at the shelter

Day 3. Climbing the Matterhorn (4478 m). Descent along the Southwest Ridge of Lyon towards Italy. Overnight at the shelter hut Karel (Carrel, 3829 m). Possible descent to the Abruzzi hut (Duca degli Abruzzi)

Day 4. Descent to Duca degli Abruzzi (3-4 hours), stop. Continuation of the descent to Breul-Cervinia. Accommodation in a camping/hotel. Possible departure to Milan airport

 

Option - 3. Climbing the Matterhorn from Italy along the Southwestern ridge of Lyon, difficulty category - 4A

Day 1. Meeting in Breuil-Cervinia (Breuil-Cervinia). Accommodation at the hotel. (Who does not know the way, we will send a detailed description)

Day 2. Ascent to the hut Karel (Carrel, 3829 m). Overnight stay (a mattress and a blanket are provided in the shelter)

Day 3. Climbing the Matterhorn (4478 m). Overnight at the shelter

Day 4. Descent to the Abruzzi hut (Duca degli Abruzzi) and further to Breul-Cervinia. Hotel accommodation

Day 5. Return to Milan. Flight home or reserve day

Climbing Mont Blanc (4810 m)

1. Geneva - Chamonix - acclimatization days - climbing to the top of Mont Blanc (4810 m) - Chamonix - Geneva

2. Milan - Courmayeur - Chamonix - acclimatization days - climbing to the top of Mont Blanc (4810 m) - Chamonix - Courmayeur - Milan

Climbing the Matterhorn (4478 m)

1. Zermatt - Lake Schwarz - Hörnli shelter, 3260 m - Matterhorn peak, 4478 m - Zermatt

2. Breul-Cervinia - Lake Schwarz - Hörnli shelter, 3260 m - Matterhorn peak, 4478 m - Karel hut - Abruzzi hut - Breul-Cervinia

3. Breul-Cervinia - Karel hut - Matterhorn peak, 4478 m - Karel hut - Abruzzi hut - Breul-Cervinia

The cost of the package of services*:

- from 3100 Euro (2 participants),

- from 4700 Euro (1 participant).

*Payment is made in EURO!!!

*The cost of the tour depends on the number of participants, accommodation conditions, transfers, acclimatization days, etc.

ATTENTION!!! All organizational issues and transfers are negotiated and agreed before the trip!!!

Brief information about the region

Mount Mont Blanc, or rather a whole mountain range (French Mont Blanc, Italian Monte Bianco, lit. "white mountain"), the highest point of the Alps, 4810 m high. It is located on the border of France and Italy in the regions of Haute Savoie and Courmayeur, respectively . It was from the ascent of Mont Blanc, on August 8, 1786, by the doctor Michel-Gabriel Packard and the mountain guide Jacques Balma, that the emergence of mountaineering is associated. The monument to the pioneers of Mont Blanc is located in the world center of mountaineering and skiing - Chamonix. Climbing Mont Blanc is made all year round, both from France and from Italy. The best time to climb Mont Blanc is July and August. There are many climbing routes on Mont Blanc for every taste. From classic and simple: The Gouter route, Kosmik route or through the Three peaks (The Three-Mont-Blanc route), to very difficult and long, combined and mixed routes. For example, along the walls of Aiguille Blanche, Grand Pilier d'Angle, Brenva, Miage, as well as buttresses and ridges.

Mount Matterhorn is located on the border between Switzerland and Italy, in the heart of the Wallis (Pennine) Alps. Height 4478 meters. Rising above the Swiss village of Zermatt and the Italian village of Breuil-Cervinia. More than 30 different routes from 3 to 6 categories of difficulty have been laid on the mountain. We offer 2 classic options for climbing the Matterhorn (4478 m):

  • Climbing the Matterhorn from Switzerland along the Northwest Ridge of Hernli, 3B
  • Climbing the Matterhorn from Italy along the Southwest Ridge of Lyon, 4A

ATTENTION!!! Before the ascent, there will be basic lessons in mountaineering technique, which are necessary as preparation for climbing the Matterhorn. During the training, participants will consolidate the skills of working in combinations, moving along rocks and handling equipment. These activities will allow us to better acclimatize and set up the body for climbing.

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