Attention!
- Indicative tour program (can be changed by the group leader!!!).
- We recommend planning a tour for 28-30 days
Day 1-3
Arrival in Dushanbe. Hotel accommodation. Immediately fly to Moskvin clearing or move to Jirgital, and then fly. Arrangement in the Base camp. Preparatory day. Familiarization with the area. Base Camp Acclimatization
Days 4-5
Acclimatization cycle 1. Access to acclimatization ascent to Vorobyov peak (5691 m). Overnight in the camp at an altitude of 5300 m. Climbing the peak of Vorobyov. Descent to the base camp.
Day 6
Day of rest, reserve day in case of bad weather
Days 7-9
Acclimatization cycle 2.
Access to the acclimatization climb to the peak of Four (6299 m). Overnight in the camp at an altitude of about 6100 m. Climbing the peak of Four. Descent to the base camp.
Acclimatization hike to Korzhenevskaya peak. Ascent to Camp 1 (5100 m), to Camp 2 (5300 m) and further to Camp 3 (5800 m). The place of the night is determined by the state of the group. In the morning, a small traverse under the rocks, approximately 6100 m. Descent to the base camp.
Days 10-11
Days of rest or reserve days in case of bad weather.
Days 12-16
The start of the ascent. As a group.
Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m). Overnight. Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m). Overnight. Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 m). The attempt to climb the summit is 7105 m. Descent to Camp 4 (6400 m). Overnight. Descent to the base camp.
Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m). Overnight. Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 m). The attempt to climb the summit is 7105 m. Descent to Camp 4 (6400 m). Overnight. Descent to the base camp.
Attention !! From Camp 3 (5800 m) to Camp 4 (6400 m), first a steep traverse, and then vertical movement along the railing. From Camp 4 (6400 m), first a wide snowy slope, and then along the ridge to the apex slope.
Days 17-19
Reserve days in case of bad weather, rest.
Days 20-24
The start of the ascent. By group status:
Ascent to Camp 1 (5300 m) or Camp 2 (5800 m). Overnight. Ascent to Camp 3 on the Pamir firn plateau (6100 m), admire the beauties, overnight. In the morning, we start driving to Dushanbe peak, overnight at an altitude of 6900 m. Early rise, we will see the peak 7495 m. Next, descent to the plateau (6100 m), overnight. We slept well. We rise to the "Chest" and slowly descend to the base camp (4200 m).
Ascent to Camp 3 on the Pamir firn plateau (6100 m), overnight. Ascent to Dushanbe peak, overnight at an altitude of 6900 m. Early rise, the summit of 7495 m awaits us. Next, descent to the plateau (6100 m), overnight. Descent to the base camp (4200 m).
For information!! Starting from Camp 2 (5800 m), a steep climb in places, we use our own and rail ropes. We rise first to the so-called "Breasts", the height is about 6300 m, and then connected, we move to the center of the Pamir firn plate under the Dushanbe peak (6100 m). Overnight in tents, caves or igloos. At Dushanbe peak, we climb the not very steep northern snow-ice slope. Overnight at an altitude of 6900 m. If the weather is tired or deteriorates, there are parking lots at an altitude of 6400 - 6700 m. From Dushanbe peak, first along a not steep ice-snow slope we approach the peak trapezoid rock massif, go around it, rising and traversing From the left side. We rise to the edge of Borodkin, and then along the not very steep ridge we rise to the top.
Days 25-26
Reserve days in case of bad weather, rest.
Day 27
Re going. Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 28
Departure from Dushanbe.
- Other peaks according to the program "Snow Leopard" - read
- We recommend reading our article about Lenin Peak - read