Attention!
- Indicative tour program (can be changed by the group leader!!!).
- We recommend planning a tour for 20-22 days
Day 1
Arrival in Bishkek. Hotel accommodation. Free time for walking around the city, visiting the bazaar, etc.
Days 2-5
Transfer to Karkara (460km). Accommodation at the Karkara Base Camp. Helicopter flight to the Khan-Tengri Base Camp (4000m).
Acquaintance with the area, acclimatization walks, checking equipment, products, coordination of plans taking into account the weather. Preparing for the climb.
Days 6-9
If everything is OK, we begin to work. Smooth physical activity and climb no more than 1000 m per day.
First transition: Khan Tengri Peak Base Camp (4000m) - Camp 1 (4200m). The route starts from the Base Camp located on the left-bank moraine of the Y. Inylchek glacier, at its confluence with the Zvezdochka glacier, at an altitude of about 4000 meters. Further, the route runs along the central part of the Yu. Inylchek glacier, towards Camp No. 1 (4200 m), which is located at the confluence of the Yu. Inylchek glacier with the Semenovsky glacier on the right-bank moraine, at the foot of the slope of Chapaev peak.
We rested, as a rule there are no problems here, going to Camp 2 (5300m). Further, climbing up the Semenovsky glacier in the direction of the icefall, in the upper reaches of the glacier, a section of the path is objectively dangerous due to possible landslides from Chapaev peak and Khan-Tengri peak. It is highly recommended that you organize an exit in the early morning, and, preferably, move around without rest on rest. The icefall passes either “on the forehead” or passes under the slopes of Chapaev’s peak. The second option is faster, but more dangerous than the first, due to possible avalanches and rockfalls from the slope of Chapaev Peak. It is advisable to make the movement in conjunction, due to the abundance of cracks on the glacier. After passing the icefall, exit to the upper circus of the Semenovsky glacier. Here, at an altitude of 5300 m. Camp No. 2 is located. Traditionally, this camp is used at acclimatization exits, but then, on the second attempt, they pass from the first camp immediately to the third.
Attention!!! In Camp 2 (5300 m), according to the general condition of the group, you can stay for 1 day to get a smooth acclimatization. On this day, you can take a walk in the direction of Camp 3.
No problem, we are moving to Camp 3 (5900 m). From Camp No. 2, we climb the steep slopes to the upper reaches of the circus. Semenovsky in the direction of the bridge between the Khan-Tengri peak and the shoulder of Chapaev peak. On the left side of the lintel at an altitude of 5900 m. Is located - Camp No. 3. Here it is possible to set up tents, or dig snow caves. If you are lucky, you will be able to use the cave dug by someone earlier.
Woke up in the morning, admired the views. Further from Camp 3 we are waiting for a long descent to the Base Camp of Khan Tengri Peak along the ascent path.
Days 10-11
Day of rest, preparation, watching the weather
Days 12-16
So, the start of our SAFE and COMFORTABLE ascent has been given. We have two options for climbing:
Unhurried, classic: Base Camp - Camp 1 (4200m) - Camp 2 (5300m) - Camp 3 (5900m) - Camp 4 (6400m) - top of Khan Tengri peak (6995 m) - descent to Camp 3 (5900 m) - descent to the base camp
Attention! If you plan to make an attempt to climb Pobeda Peak in the future, we recommend that on the descent from the top of Khan Tengri Peak (6995 m),
instead of going down to Camp 3, stop for an overnight stay in Camp 4 (6400m).
Base Camp - Camp 1 (4200 m) - Camp 3 (5900 m) - Camp 4 (6400 m) - top of Khan Tengri peak (6995 m) - descent to Camp 3 (5900 m) - descent to Base camp
For information: from Camp No. 3, the route passes through the jumper and further along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri. The comb, as a rule, is suspended by stationary ropes, "handrails". But there is a danger: old worn railings are often found on the route - be careful! The route is rocky to a height of 6900 m, then the snow dome, turning into a narrow snow knife, which leads to the top. On the ridge there are platforms at heights of 6200 m, 6400 m, 6700 m. Up to a height of 6700 m, the climb passes on the right side of the western ridge, from the 6700 platform - traverse to the right in the direction of the sidelines.
At the beginning of the corridor, a rock wall of 10 m. Further along the corridor and again to the right. On the rocks there is an exit to a snow scallop, abutting against a rock wall 20 m high.
Next exit to the dome. At the top is an unremarkable tripod. A memory photo, 20-30 minutes, in case of good weather, to understand what happened and that's it, down, since you don’t need to stay at the top for a long time, the way down is not any easier.
Days 17-18
Spare days in case of bad weather, an extra night at 6400.
Day 19
The plans are completed, you are very satisfied. Going slowly but continue to enjoy the unforgettable views. Helicopter flight to Karkara and then transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation. The charms of a forgotten civilization. Walk in the evening city. Free time to buy souvenirs.
And for those who gathered at Victory Peak, your preparation is just beginning !!!
Day 20
Departure from Bishkek. See you next year with your many friends.
- Our other programs in Kyrgyzstan - see
- We recommend reading our article about Lenin Peak - read