Tours list
Climbing the peak of Communism (Somoni). Tajikistan

Climbing the peak of Communism (Somoni)

Somoni Peak (Communism):

  • the highest peak of the former USSR and, accordingly, in the program "Snow Leopard"
  • it is always prestigious for all climbers
  • a very beautiful place that I want to visit one more time

Attention!

  • It is possible to change the start / finish dates of the tour - it depends on the dates of helicopter departure. Helicopter flight schedule for the 2024 season, Jirgital - Base Camp - Jirgital: July - 15, 24; August - 3, 15, 25
  • Before climbing to Communism peak, many participants choose a tour - climbing to Korzhenevskaya peak 
  • Tours to other peaks under the Snow Leopard program: Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya peak, Khan Tengri Peak, Pobeda Peak
Article:
74
Country:
Tajikistan
Tour type:
Expeditions and ascents
Directions:
From North
Complexity:
High
Number of participants:
From 1 to 12 people
Maximum height:
7495 m
Season:
July - August
Start of the program:
Dushanbe
Finish program:
Dushanbe
Duration:
22 days
Price:
2 700 USD
Count:
Tours dates
  
08.07.202531.08.2025
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Attention!

  • Indicative tour program (can be changed by the group leader!!!).
  • We recommend planning a tour for 22-26 days

Days 1-3
Arrival in Dushanbe. Hotel accommodation. Immediately fly to Moskvin clearing or move to Jirgital, and then fly. Arrangement in the Base camp. Preparatory day. Familiarization with the area. Base Camp Acclimatization

Days 4-5
Acclimatization cycle 1. Access to the acclimatization climb to Vorobyov peak (5691 m). Overnight in the camp at an altitude of 5300 m. Climbing the peak of Vorobyov. Descent to the base camp.

Day 6
Day of rest, reserve day in case of bad weather.

Days 7-9
Acclimatization cycle 2.

  • Option 1.

Access to the acclimatization climb to the peak of Four (6299 m). Overnight in the camp at an altitude of about 6100 m. Climbing the peak of Four. Descent to the base camp.

  • Option 2

Acclimatization exit to the Pamir firn plateau (6100 m). Ascent to Camp 1 (5300 m) or Camp 2 (5800 m). Overnight. Ascent to Camp 3 on the Pamir firn plateau (6100 m). Descent to the base camp.

Days 10-12
Reserve days in case of bad weather, rest.

Days 13-17
The start of the ascent. By group status:

  • Option 1.

Ascent to Camp 1 (5300 m) or Camp 2 (5800 m). Overnight. Ascent to Camp 3 on the Pamir firn plateau (6100 m), admire the beauties, overnight. In the morning, we start driving to Dushanbe peak, overnight at an altitude of 6900 m. Early rise, we will see the peak 7495 m. Next, descent to the plateau (6100 m), overnight. We slept well. We rise to the "Chest" and slowly descend to the base camp (4200 m).

  • Option 2

Ascent to camp 1 (5300 m), overnight. Ascent to Camp 3 on the Pamir firn plateau (6100 m), overnight. Ascent to Dushanbe peak, overnight at an altitude of 6900 m. Early rise, the summit of 7495 m awaits us. Next, descent to the plateau (6100 m), overnight. Descent to the base camp (4200 m).
For information!! Starting from Camp 2 (5800 m), a steep climb in places, we use our own and rail ropes. First we climb the so-called "Breasts", the height of the tunnel is 6300 m, and then connected, we move to the center of the Pamir firn plateau under the peak of Dushanbe (6100 m). Overnight in tents, caves or igloos. At Dushanbe peak, we climb the not very steep northern snow-ice slope. Overnight at an altitude of 6900 m. If the weather is tired or deteriorates, there are parking lots at an altitude of 6400 - 6700 m. From Dushanbe peak, first along a not steep ice-snow slope we approach the peak trapezoid rock massif, go around it, rising and traversing From the left side. We rise to the edge of Borodkin, and then along the not very steep ridge we rise to the top.

Days 18-20
Reserve days in case of bad weather, rest.

Day 21
Re going. Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 22
Departure from Dushanbe.

Dushanbe - Dzhirgital - Moskvina glade (4200 m) - Vorobyev peak (5691 m) - Four (699 m) peak - camp 2 (5300 m) - camp 3 (5800 m) - camp 4 (6100 m) - Moskvina glade 4200 m - Camp 1 (5300 m) - Camp 2 (5800 m) - Camp 3 Pamir firn plateau (6100 m) - Dushanbe peak (6900 m) - Trapezoid - Borodkin rib - peak, Communism peak (7495 m) - Camp 3 Pamir firn plateau (6100 m) - Moskvina glade (4200 m) - Jirgital - Dushanbe

Cost of programs for 2024

  • The cost of an independent tour, Small package, Dushanbe / Dushanbe - from 2700 USD
  • The cost of an independent tour, Optimal package, Dushanbe / Dushanbe - from 3500 USD
  • The cost of an independent tour, Full package, Dushanbe / Dushanbe - from 3900 USD

Attention!

  • Helicopter flight schedule for the 2024 season, Jirgital - Base Camp - Jirgital: July - 15, 24; August - 3, 15, 25
  • A full description of the packages (what is included and not included) will be sent upon your request.
  • The cost of the program in a group with a company guide is discussed in advance and depends on the number of participants!!!

The cost of the Full package includes:

  • Meeting / seeing off at the airport of Dushanbe
  • Two-way transfer, hotel accommodation (1 night)
  • Registration in Tajikistan up to 30 days
  • City transportation
  • Moving by road in two directions to the village of Dzhirgital
  • Accommodation in Jirgital (1 night), 3 meals a day
  • Flight Jirgital-BL-Jirgital (baggage up to 30 kg)
  • Accommodation in the base camp (tents)
  • Food (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, High-altitude food)
  • Sauna (2 times)
  • Shower (4 times)
  • Environmental fee
  • Luggage storage
  • Locker room
  • Medical care (doctor's advice)
  • Registration in the KCC
  • Infrastructure in BC (TV, recharging batteries, toilets)

The cost of the Small Package includes:

  • Meeting / seeing off at the airport of Dushanbe
  • Two-way transfer, hotel accommodation (1 night)
  • Registration in Tajikistan up to 30 days
  • Moving by road in two directions to the village of Dzhirgital
  • Accommodation in Jirgital (1 night), breakfast
  • Flight Jirgital-BL-Jirgital (baggage up to 20 kg)
  • Accommodation in the base camp (own tents)
  • Environmental fee
  • luggage storage
  • Locker room
  • Medical care (doctor's advice)
  • Registration in the KCC
  • Infrastructure in BC (TV, recharging batteries, toilets)

Cost of additional services:

  • Accommodation in houses - 10 USD
  • Baggage transportation (per 1 kg 4,5 USD)
  • Breakfast - 20 USD
  • Lunch - 25 USD
  • Dinner - 25 USD
  • High Altitude Food - 50 USD / days
  • Sauna - 20 USD
  • Shower - 10 USD
  • New gas barrels, 230 mg - 9 USD
  • Satellite phone - 3 USD / min
  • Wi Fi 256x512 - 15 USD / hour
  • Camp pricelist bar
  • Mobile walkie-talkie - 5 USD / day
  • Porter Services:
    • up to 5300m 8 USD / kg
    • up to 5800m 12 USD / kg
    • up to 6300m 20 USD / kg
    • up to 6500m 28 USD / kg

Brief information on the area

Somoni Peak (7495 m) is located in the Pamirs, in the ridge of the Academy of Sciences, where the latter connects with the ridge of Peter I. Previously, it was called the peak of Stalin, Communism, and since 1999 it was named Ismail Somoni Peak. The peak was identified and mapped during the expeditions of 1931 and 1932, and the first ascent was made by the Great Climber - E. Abalakov in 1933.

Somoni Peak (7495 m):

  • high, big and beautiful mountain - the dream of many climbers
  • the highest peak in the program "Snow Leopard"
  • more than 30 routes from them: 15 routes 5 k.s. and 10 routes of 6 k.s., as well as traverses

Attention!!! Before climbing Somoni peak, we recommend:

  • to make acclimatization ascent to the peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105 m)
  • or to make acclimatization ascents on five-six thousandths in other areas.

Near the Somoni Peak at a distance of 13 kilometers to the North, down the Fortambek Glacier, is Korzhenevskaya Peak. Its height above sea level is 7105 m.
Today at Korzhenevskaya peak:

  • laid more than 10 climbing routes with a difficulty category of 5A to 6A
  • included in the program "Snow Leopard".
  • It is recommended before climbing to the peak of Communism, in order to get acclimatization and check out sportswear.

Currently, the Base Camp for climbing the peaks of Somoni and Korzhenevskaya is located in the upper reaches of the Fortambek Glacier in Moskvina Glade. Altitude at an altitude of 4200 m. Expeditions to the glade of Moskvin fly by helicopter.

Here:

  • every adventurer can enjoy magnificent views of the peaks: Communism, Korzhenevskaya, Abalakov, Khokhlov, Moscow, Leningrad, etc.
  • the Pamir firn plateau is located, one of the longest high plateaus in the world.
  • large glaciers Fortambek and Moskvin, Walter are located.
  • glaciers of Ordzhonikidze, Communism and Belyaev

Requirements for Participants

  • Route is fit
  • Group size from 4 to 12 people
  • Children are not allowed on the route
  • Insurance

Additional information

  • The receiving party has the right to change the route according to weather conditions and the condition of the group
  • Meals on the route: tourists cook on their own on gas burners
  • The price does not include: additional excursions, transfers outside the program, environmental fees, etc.
  • It is possible to provide additional services by prior arrangement.

How to get to the beginning of the route?
To fly to Dushanbe, then there are two options: immediately by helicopter to Moskvina Glade or by motor transport to Dzhirgital, and then by helicopter to Moskvina Glade.

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