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Climbing the peak of Korzhenevskaya. Tajikistan

Climbing the peak of Korzhenevskaya

Peak Korzhenevskaya, and more correctly Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, was named in honor of his wife by Russian geographer N. Korzhenevsky.
Korzhenevskaya Peak - included in the "Snow Leopard" program.

Attention!

  • It is possible to change the start / finish dates of the tour - it depends on the dates of helicopter departure. Helicopter flight schedule for the 2024 season, Jirgital - Base Camp - Jirgital: July - 15, 24; August - 3, 15, 25
  • After climbing the peak of Korzhenevskaya, many participants choose a tour - climbing the peak of Communism
  • Tours to other peaks under the Snow Leopard program: Lenin Peak, Communism Peak, Khan Tengri Peak, Pobeda Peak
Article:
75
Country:
Tajikistan
Tour type:
Expeditions and ascents
Directions:
From the South
Complexity:
High
Number of participants:
From 1 to 12 people
Maximum height:
7105 m
Season:
July - August
Start of the program:
Dushanbe
Finish program:
Dushanbe
Duration:
20 days
Price:
2 700 USD
Count:
Tours dates
  
08.07.202531.08.2025
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Attention!

  • Indicative tour program (can be changed by the group leader!!!).
  • We recommend planning a tour for 20-22 days

Day 1-3
Arrival in Dushanbe. Hotel accommodation. Immediately fly to Moskvin clearing or move to Jirgital, and then fly. Arrangement in the Base camp. Preparatory day. Familiarization with the area. Base Camp Acclimatization

Days 4-5
Acclimatization cycle 1. Access to acclimatization ascent to Vorobyov peak (5691m). Overnight in the camp at an altitude of 5300 m. Climbing the peak of Vorobyov. Descent to the base camp.

Day 6
Day of rest, reserve day in case of bad weather.

Days 7-9
Acclimatization cycle 2.

  • Option 1.

Access to the acclimatization climb to the peak of Four (6299 m). Overnight in the camp at an altitude of about 6100 m. Climbing the peak of Four. Descent to the base camp.

  • Option 2

Acclimatization hike to Korzhenevskaya peak. Ascent to Camp 1 (5100 m), to Camp 2 (5300 m) and further to Camp 3 (5800 m). The place of the night is determined by the state of the group. In the morning, a small traverse under the rocks, approximately 6100 m. Descent to the base camp.


Days 10-11
Days of rest or reserve days in case of bad weather.

Days 12-16
The start of the ascent. By group status:

  • Option 1.

Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m), overnight. Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m), overnight. Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 m), overnight. Attempt to climb the summit - 7105 m. Descent to Camp 4 (6400 m), overnight. Descent to the base camp.

  • Option 2

Ascent to Camp 3 (5800 m), overnight. Ascent to Camp 4 (6400 m), overnight. Attempt to climb the summit - 7105 m. Descent to Camp 4 (6400 m), overnight. Descent to the base camp.
Attention !! From Camp 3 (5800 m) to Camp 4 (6400 m), first a steep traverse, and then vertical movement along the railing. From Camp 4 (6400 m), first a wide snowy slope, and then along the ridge to the apex slope.

Days 17-18
Reserve days in case of bad weather.

Day 19

Re going. Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight at the hotel.
For those who are going to the peak of Ismail Somoni (Communism), rest days, preparation for climbing.

Day 20
Departure from Dushanbe.

  • Other peaks according to the program "Snow Leopard" - read
  • We recommend reading our article about Lenin Peak - read

Dushanbe - Dzhirgital - Moskvina glade (4200 m) - Vorobyev peak (5691 m) - Four peak (6299 m) - camp 1 (5100 m) - camp 2 (5300 m) - camp 3 (5800 m) - camp 4 (6400 m) ) - Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m) - camp 4 (6400 m) - Moskvina glade (4200 m) - Dzhirgital - Dushanbe

Cost of programs for 2024

  • The cost of an independent tour, Small package, Dushanbe / Dushanbe - from 2700 USD
  • The cost of an independent tour, Optimal package, Dushanbe / Dushanbe - from 3500 USD
  • The cost of an independent tour, Full package, Dushanbe / Dushanbe - from 3900 USD

Attention!

  • Helicopter flight schedule for the 2024 season, Jirgital - Base Camp - Jirgital: July - 15, 24; August - 3, 15, 25
  • A full description of the packages (what is included and not included) will be sent upon your request.
  • The cost of the program in a group with a company guide is discussed in advance and depends on the number of participants!!!

The cost of the Full package includes:

  • Meeting / seeing off at the airport of Dushanbe
  • Two-way transfer, hotel accommodation (1 night)
  • Registration in Tajikistan up to 30 days
  • City transportation
  • Moving by road in two directions to the village of Dzhirgital
  • Accommodation in Jirgital (1 night), 3 meals a day
  • Flight Jirgital-BL-Jirgital (baggage up to 30 kg)
  • Accommodation in the base camp (tents)
  • Food (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, High-altitude food)
  • Sauna (2 times)
  • Shower (4 times)
  • Environmental fee
  • Luggage storage
  • Locker room
  • Medical care (doctor's advice)
  • Registration in the KCC
  • Infrastructure in BC (TV, recharging batteries, toilets)

The cost of the Small Package includes:

  • Meeting / seeing off at the airport of Dushanbe
  • Two-way transfer, hotel accommodation (1 night)
  • Registration in Tajikistan up to 30 days
  • Moving by road in two directions to the village of Dzhirgital
  • Accommodation in Jirgital (1 night), breakfast
  • Flight Jirgital-BL-Jirgital (baggage up to 20 kg)
  • Accommodation in the base camp (own tents)
  • Environmental fee
  • luggage storage
  • Locker room
  • Medical care (doctor's advice)
  • Registration in the KCC
  • Infrastructure in BC (TV, recharging batteries, toilets)

Cost of additional services:

  • Accommodation in houses - 10 USD
  • Baggage transportation (per 1 kg 4,5 USD)
  • Breakfast - 20 USD
  • Lunch - 25 USD
  • Dinner - 25 USD
  • High Altitude Food - 50 USD / days
  • Sauna - 20 USD
  • Shower - 10 USD
  • New gas barrels, 230 mg - 9 USD
  • Satellite phone - 3 USD / min
  • Wi Fi 256x512 - 15 USD / hour
  • Camp pricelist bar
  • Mobile walkie-talkie - 5 USD / day
  • Porter Services:
    • up to 5300m 8 USD / kg
    • up to 5800m 12 USD / kg
    • up to 6300m 20 USD / kg
    • up to 6500m 28 USD / kg

Korzhenevskaya Peak - included in the "Snow Leopard" program, this is a beautiful route with magnificent views of Somoni Peak and other peaks.

Brief information on the area

Korzhenevskaya peak is located in the Pamirs, in the northern part of the ridge of the Academy of Sciences. Its height above sea level is 7105 m. The peak was discovered on August 23, 1910 by the Russian geographer N. Korzhenevsky. The first successful ascent was carried out on August 22, 1953 by a group led by A. Ugarov along the northern ridge from the Korzhenevskaya glacier.

To date, Korzhenevskaya peak:

  • laid more than 10 climbing routes with a difficulty category of 5A to 6A
  • included in the program "Snow Leopard".
  • It is recommended before climbing to the peak of Communism, in order to get acclimatization and check out sportswear.

Near the Korzhenevskaya Peak at a distance of 13 kilometers to the South, further along the Fortambek Glacier, is the peak of Ismoil Somoni (the former peak of Communism). The highest point of the former Soviet Union. Its height is 7495 m. The Somoni Peak (7495 m) is located in the ridge of the Academy of Sciences, where the latter connects to the ridge of Peter I. Previously, it was called the peak of Stalin, Communism, and since 1999 it has been called Ismail Somoni Peak. The peak was identified and mapped during the expeditions of 1931 and 1932, and the first ascent was made by the Great Climber - E. Abalakov in 1933.

Attention!!! Before climbing Somoni peak, we recommend:

  • to make acclimatization ascents on five-six thousandths in other areas.

Currently, the Base Camp for climbing the peaks of Somoni and Korzhenevskaya is located in the upper reaches of the Fortambek Glacier in Moskvina Glade. Altitude at an altitude of 4200 m. Expeditions to the glade of Moskvin fly by helicopter.
Here:

  • every adventurer can enjoy magnificent views of the peaks: Communism, Korzhenevskaya, Abalakov, Khokhlov, Moscow, Leningrad, etc.
  • the Pamir firn plateau is located, one of the longest high plateaus in the world.
  • large glaciers Fortambek and Moskvin, Walter are located.
  • glaciers of Ordzhonikidze, Communism and Belyaev

Requirements for Participants

  • Route is fit
  • Group size from 4 to 12 people
  • Children are not allowed on the route
  • Insurance

Additional information

  • The receiving party has the right to change the route according to weather conditions and the condition of the group
  • Meals on the route: tourists cook on their own on gas burners
  • The price does not include: additional excursions, transfers outside the program, environmental fees, etc.
  • It is possible to provide additional services by prior arrangement.

How to get to the beginning of the route?
To fly to Dushanbe, then there are two options: immediately by helicopter to Moskvina Glade or by motor transport to Dzhirgital, and then by helicopter to Moskvina Glade.

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