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Climb Pobeda Peak. Kyrgyzstan

Climb Pobeda Peak

Pobeda Peak:

  • the most northern seven-thousander of the world
  • the most difficult seven-thousandth in the program "Snow Leopard"
  • the dream of many generations of climbers

Attention!

  • Tour start/finish dates. In the 2024 season, helicopter departures from the Karkara base camp to the South Inylchek base camp: July - 11, 15, 18, 22, 25, 28, 31; August - 1, 5, 7, 8, 11, 14, 18, 21, 22
  • Before climbing Pobeda peak, many participants choose acclimatization tours: climbing Elbrus or Kazbek or Ararat
  • Before climbing Pobeda рeak, many participants choose an acclimatization tour - climbing Khan Tengri Peak
  • Tours to other peaks under the Snow Leopard program: Lenin peak, Communism peak, Korzhenevskaya peak, Khan-Tengri peak
  • We recommend reading our article about Lenin Peak - read


 

Article:
78
Country:
Kyrgyzstan
Tour type:
Expeditions and ascents
Directions:
From North
Complexity:
High
Number of participants:
From 1 to 12 people
Maximum height:
7439 m
Season:
July - August
Start of the program:
Bishkek (Karkara)
Finish program:
Bishkek (Karkara)
Duration:
30 days
Price:
1 700 USD
Count:
Tours dates
  
10.07.202527.08.2025
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Attention!

  • Indicative tour program (can be changed by the group leader!!!).
  • We recommend planning a tour for 30 days

Day 1
Arrival in Bishkek. Hotel accommodation. Free time for walking around the city, visiting the bazaar, etc.

Days 2-5
Transfer to Karkara (460 km). Accommodation at the Karkara Base Camp. Helicopter flight to South Inylchek Base Camp (4000 m)
Acquaintance with the area, acclimatization walks, checking equipment, products, coordination of plans taking into account the weather. Preparing for the climb.

Days 6-9
If everything is OK, we begin to work. Smooth physical activity and climb no more than 1000 m per day.
Cycle 1. Approach on the Zvezdochka glacier, ascent to the Wild pass.

  • Camp 1 (4600 m), Climb to
  • Camp 2 (5300 m).
  • Camp 3 (5700 m).
  • Descent to BC.

Days 10-11
Days of rest, preparation for the exit, follow the weather

Days 12-16
Cycle 2. Climbing the ridge with an overnight stay at (6400 m)

  • Camp 1 (4600 m).
  • Camp 2 (5300 m).
  • Camp 3 (5700 m).
  • Camp 4 (6400 m).
  • Descent to BC.

Days 17-19
Days of rest, preparation for the exit, follow the weather

Days 20-27
Cycle 3. We start along the route from the north through the Western peak (Vazha Pshavela peak - 6918 m).
On the first day, go along the Zvezdochka glacier to Camp 1 (4600 m), under the Wild pass. If you are in good shape, skip Camp 2 (5300 m), go up to the Wild pass to Camp 3 (in the region of 5700 - 5800 m). Further along the ridge and small rocks, we move to Camp 4 (6400 m), and then to the Western peak (Vazha Pshavela peak - 6918 m), this is Camp 5 (6918 m).

If the weather is favorable and the condition of the group is fighting, we attempt to climb to the top of Pobeda peak 7439 m and descent to Camp 5 (6918 m).

Additional information: First, the path goes along the snow ridge, mainly at an altitude of more than 7000 meters. About two kilometers and we approach the base of the summit pyramid, "Obelisk", which is located at an altitude of about seven thousand meters. There is a place to spend the night !!!. Next is the climb to the top. Within one day you need to climb to the top and return back to the camp in a snow cave near Western Pobeda.

Attention!! We have reserve days in case of bad weather !!!

In any case, from Camp 5 (6918 m) we descend to Camp 1 (4600 m) and further to Base Camp.

Days 27-28
Spare days in case of bad weather, extra nights at altitudes above 6918 m.

Day 29
We collect things. Flight to the Karkara base camp, transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.

Day 30
Departure from Bishkek. See you next year with your many friends.

  • Our other programs in Kyrgyzstan - see
  • We recommend reading our article about Lenin Peak - read

Bishkek - BC "Karkara" - BC "South. Inylchek ”- Camp 1 (4600 m) - Camp 2 (5300 m) - Camp 3 (Wild pass, in the region of 5700 - 5800 m) - Camp 4 (6400 m) - Camp 5, Western peak (Vazha Pshavela peak - 6918 m ) - Obelisk - Pobeda Peak (7439 m) - Camp 5 (6918 m) - Camp 1 (4600 m) - BL “Yuzh. Inylchek "- BC" Karkara "- Bishkek

Cost of programs for 2024

  • The cost of an independent tour, Small package, BC Karkara / BC Karkara - from 1700 USD, any time from 01.07 to 28.08.2024
  • The cost of an independent tour, Full package, Bishkek / Bishkek - from 2900 USD, any time from 01.07 to 28.08.2024
  • The cost of the program in a group with a company guide is discussed in advance and depends on the number of participants!!!

The cost of a full package includes:

  • Meeting at the Airport or at the railway station in Bishkek

Two way transfers:

  • Airport (Railway Station) - Hotel - Airport (Railway Station),
  • Bishkek - Karkara (helipad) - Bishkek
  • Karkara - Base Camp - Karkara

Food:

  • On the road: Bishkek - Karkara - Bishkek
  • In BL 3 meals a day

Accommodation:

  • Hotel in Bishkek, breakfast (3 nights)
  • In the base camp. Included: hot shower and sauna, toilet, luggage room.

Services in BC:

  • Necessary advice on the route
  • Medical assistance and advice
  • Registration in the saved squad
  • Rental of radio stations and the use of long-distance radio communications
  • Use of fixed railing

Other:

  • Admission to the border zone
  • Environmental fee
  • Registration on the territory of Kyrgyzstan (if necessary)
  • Airline and train ticket exchange services

The cost of a small package includes:

Two way transfers:

  • Helicopter flight with cargo up to 30 kg on the route Karkara - Base Camp - Karkara

Services in BC:

  • Necessary advice on the route
  • Medical assistance and advice
  • Registration in the saved squad
  • Rental of radio stations and the use of long-distance radio communications
  • Use of fixed railing

Other:

  • Admission to the border zone
  • Environmental fee
  • Registration on the territory of Kyrgyzstan (if necessary)
  • Airline and train ticket exchange services

The price does not include (all packages!):

  • Road to Bishkek (air and train tickets)
  • Visa cost
  • Single hotel accommodation
  • Extra days at the hotel and services
  • Mountain guide services
  • Equipment rental
  • Insurance, etc.

At extra charge:

  • Descent to South Inylchek (for customers who buy a package from the north) - 200 USD
  • Helicopter descent to Karkara for rest (for several days) and flight back to Base Camp - 500 USD

Brief information on the area

Pobeda Peak (Kyrgyz. Jenish Chokusu, Uig. Tomur) is the highest point of the Tien Shan (7439 m), located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and China, in the Kakshaal-Too ridge, east of Lake Issyk-Kul and 16 km south-west of the peak Khan Tengri. The first ascent to the summit was made on September 19, 1938 by Soviet climbers L. Gutman, E. Ivanov, A. Sidorenko, arms. A. Letaveta. They called it the peak of 20 years of the Komsomol. In 1943, after a topographic survey, the peak was given the name “Peak of Military Topographers”. And later, in honor of the Pobeda in World War II, in 1946, the peak was renamed Pobeda Peak.

To date, Pobeda Peak:

  • 9 climbing routes were laid, mainly from the north. Passed his traverse.
  • Pobeda Peak is one of the five seven thousandths of the CIS, climbing which gives the right to receive the honorary title "Snow Leopard".
  • This is one of the most difficult peaks in the world. Climbing routes to Pobeda Peak are classified as one of the most difficult in mountaineering (difficulty categories: 5-6).
  • Severe climatic features: northern location, sudden gusts of wind, low temperature, altitude, steep slopes, snowstorms ...
  • This is prestigious - many professional climbers are challenging the peak of Pobeda.

The latest equipment, detailed maps, experienced guides, rescuers, ready to come to the rescue at any time, reduce the risk of climbing Pobeda Peak.

The first explorers and climbers traveled to the Inylchek area using caravan loads of cargo for a very long time.
Currently, travel companies organize: pedestrian multi-day trekking to Inylchek or helicopter throws. Every adventurer can enjoy the magnificent views of these great peaks by walking or flying in a helicopter for only half an hour! Base Camp is ideally located in the heart of the Northern Tien Shan on the ice. Yu. Inylchek at an altitude of about 4000 m. A magnificent view of the peaks of Khan Tengri (6995 m) and Victory (7439 m) opens from there.

ATTENTION!!! Before climbing Victory Peak, we recommend:

  • to make acclimatization ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m, 7010 m)*
  • or to make acclimatization ascents on five-six thousandths in other areas.

Requirements for Participants

  • Route is fit
  • Group size from 3 to 12 people
  • Children are not allowed on the route
  • Insurance

Additional information

  • The receiving party has the right to change the route according to weather conditions and the condition of the group
  • Meals on the route: tourists cook on their own on gas burners
  • The price does not include: additional excursions, transfers outside the program, environmental fees, etc.
  • It is possible to provide additional services by prior arrangement.
  • Our other programs in Kyrgyzstan - see
  • We recommend reading our article about Lenin Peak - read

How to get to the beginning of the route?
We will meet you in Bishkek, then we will move east to Karkara (460 km) and accommodate in an intermediate camp. It can also be reached from Kazakhstan. When ready, helicopter flight to South Inylchek Base Camp (4000 m).

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