Attention!
- Indicative tour program (can be changed by the group leader!!!).
- We recommend planning a tour for 30-35 days
Day 1
Arrival in Bishkek. Hotel accommodation. Free time for walking around the city, visiting the bazaar, etc.
Days 2-5
Transfer to Karkara (460 km). Accommodation at the Karkara Base Camp. Helicopter flight to the Khan-Tengri Base Camp (4000 m). Acquaintance with the area, acclimatization walks, checking equipment, products, coordination of plans taking into account the weather. Preparing for the climb.
Days 6-9
If everything is OK, we begin to work. Smooth physical activity and climb no more than 1000 m per day. First transition: Khan Tengri Peak Base Camp (4000 m) - Camp 1 (4200 m). The route starts from the Base Camp located on the left-bank moraine of the Y. Inylchek glacier, at its confluence with the Zvezdochka glacier, at an altitude of about 4000 meters. Further, the route runs along the central part of the Yu. Inylchek glacier, towards Camp No. 1 (4200 m), which is located at the confluence of the Yu. Inylchek glacier with the Semenovsky glacier on the right-bank moraine, at the foot of the slope of Chapaev peak.
We rested, as a rule there are no problems here, going to Camp 2 (5300 m). Further, climbing up the Semenovsky glacier in the direction of the icefall, in the upper reaches of the glacier, a section of the path is objectively dangerous due to possible landslides from Chapaev peak and Khan-Tengri peak. It is highly recommended that you organize an exit in the early morning, and, preferably, move around without rest on rest. The icefall passes either “on the forehead” or passes under the slopes of Chapaev’s peak. The second option is faster, but more dangerous than the first, due to possible avalanches and rockfalls from the slope of Chapaev Peak. It is advisable to make the movement in conjunction, due to the abundance of cracks on the glacier. After passing the icefall, exit to the upper circus of the Semenovsky glacier. Here, at an altitude of 5300 m. Camp No. 2 is located. Traditionally, this camp is used at acclimatization exits, but then, on the second attempt, they pass from the first camp immediately to the third.
Attention!!! In Camp 2 (5300 m), according to the general condition of the group, you can stay for 1 day to get a smooth acclimatization. On this day, you can take a walk in the direction of Camp 3.
No problem, we move to Camp 3 (5900 m) From Camp No. 2, we climb the steep slopes to the upper reaches of the circus. Semenovsky in the direction of the bridge between the Khan-Tengri peak and the shoulder of Chapaev peak. On the left side of the lintel at an altitude of 5900 m. Is located - Camp No. 3. Here it is possible to set up tents, or dig snow caves. If you are lucky, you will be able to use the cave dug by someone earlier.
From Camp 3, a long descent to the Khan Tengri Peak Base Camp along the ascent path.
Days 10-11
Day of rest, preparation, watching the weather
Days 12-16
So, the start of our SAFE and COMFORTABLE ascent has been given. We have two climbing options:
Unhurried, classic: Base Camp - Camp 1 (4200 m) - Camp 2 (5300 m) - Camp 3 (5900 m) - Camp 4 (6400 m) - the peak of Khan Tengri peak (6995 m) - descent to Camp 3 (5900 m. ) - Descent to the Base Camp
Attention! If you plan to make an attempt to climb Pobeda Peak in the future, we recommend that on the descent from the top of Khan Tengri Peak (6995 m),
instead of going down to Camp 3, stop for an overnight stay in Camp 4 (6400 m).
Base Camp - Camp 1 (4200 m) - Camp 3 (5900 m) - Camp 4 (6400 m) - top of Khan Tengri peak (6995 m) - descent to Camp 3 (5900 m) - descent to Base camp
For information: from Camp No. 3, the route passes through the jumper and further along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri. The comb, as a rule, is suspended by stationary ropes, "handrails". But there is a danger: old worn railings are often found on the route - be careful! The route is rocky to a height of 6900 m, then the snow dome, turning into a narrow snow knife, which leads to the top. On the ridge there are sites at heights of 6200 m, 6400 m, 6700 m. Here, if necessary, you can set up Camp - No. 4. The most convenient platform at an altitude of 6400 m. Up to an altitude of 6700 m. The ascent proceeds on the right side of the western ridge, from the 6700 site - traverse to the right in the direction of the corridor. At the beginning of the corridor, a rock wall of 10 m. Further along the corridor and again to the right. On the rocks there is an exit to a snow scallop, abutting against a rock wall 20 m high. Next exit to the dome. At the top is an unremarkable tripod. A memory photo, 20-30 minutes, in case of good weather, to understand what happened and that's it, down, since you don’t need to stay at the top for a long time, the way down is not any easier.
Days 17-18
Spare days in case of bad weather, an extra night at 6400 m.
Day 19
Day of rest, preparation, we monitor the weather at the peak of Pobeda.
Days 20-26
We start along the route from the north, through the Western peak (Vazha Pshavela peak - 6918 m).
On the first day, go along the Zvezdochka glacier to Camp 1 (4600 m), under the Wild pass.
If you are in good shape, skip Camp 2 (5300 m), go up to the Wild pass to Camp 3 (in the region of 5700 - 5800 m).
Further along the ridge and small rocks, we move to Camp 4 (6400 m), and then to the Western peak (Vazha Pshavela peak - 6918 m), this is Camp 5 (6918 m).
If the weather is favorable and the condition of the group is fighting, we attempt to climb to the top of Pobeda peak 7439 m and descent to Camp 5 (6918 m).
Additional information: First, the path goes along the snow ridge, mainly at an altitude of more than 7000 meters. About two kilometers and we approach the base of the summit pyramid, "Obelisk", which is located at an altitude of about seven thousand meters. There is a place to spend the night !!!. Next is the climb to the top. Within one day you need to climb to the top and return back to the camp in a snow cave near Western Victory.
Attention!! We have reserve days in case of bad weather and re-exit due to the state of health of the participants !!!
Further, in any case, from Camp 5 (6918 m) we descend to Camp 1 (4600 m) and further to Base Camp.
Days 27-28
Spare days in case of bad weather, extra nights at altitudes higher than 6918 m.
Day 29
We collect things. Flight to the Karkara base camp, transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.
Day 30
Departure from Bishkek. See you next year with your many friends.
- Our other programs in Kyrgyzstan - see
- We recommend reading our article about Lenin Peak - read